Yosemite
National Park
THURSDAY AFTERNOON
By the time
Drake exited the mini-mart the clouds had closed in, blotting out the sun and
threatening sudden catastrophe. But down here, at a mere four thousand feet of
altitude, he figured he would only have rain and fog to contend with. Still,
according to the pretty girl behind the counter, he had to cover another
fifteen miles or so before reaching his penultimate destination; Yosemite
Village.
Drake glanced
across the parking lot. Harlan and his brother were long gone. He blew out a
harsh breath. Alone at last. A fine
mist began to fall, causing Drake to look up at the lowering clouds. He turned
and gazed back east toward Tioga Pass. And
home, he thought. Drake hesitated, then sighed and yanked open the driver’s
door.
As he climbed
aboard, a sharp blast of arctic-cold wind pierced his heavy jacket and thick
cotton shirt. He shivered and slammed the door, shutting out the elements.
Inside, Hank—suffering the emotional pangs of separation—crowded over,
exceedingly happy to see his master again. He greeted Drake with prancing paws
and a big wet slobbering tongue.
Drake
pushed the dog away. “Yeah, yeah, I’m glad to see you too, Mutt,” he wiped his
face. “Move over to your side so I can drive.”
Drake
started the Chevy and drove out of the service station-mini mart, stopping as
he reached Tioga Road. “If I turn left I can be in Yosemite Village in a few
minutes. If I turn right I can go back home and forget this whole stupid idea
by tonight.” Hank seemed to sense his confusion; he nudged Drake’s side.
Ignoring the dog, Drake continued his musing. “If I go left who knows what I’ll
meet. If I go right I’ll only have to come up with a good excuse for the
church.” He became aware of Hank’s attempts for affection and put his arm
around the dog, pulling him close.
What to do? What to do? It would be easier to go left, but he really didn’t
want to. It would be harder to go
home, but at least he could return to status
quo. Yet he knew, like it or not, he was going on; if for no other reason
than Harlan’s nagging accusation that he lacked faith. Could Harlan be right? No, and I’m going to prove it.
With
a sigh of resignation Drake turned the steering wheel left. Almost immediately
he came to the intersection with Big Oak Flat Road, the park’s main north/south
thoroughfare. He immediately ran into a surprise. The two men from the
helicopter had established an impromptu traffic checkpoint. They were stopping
each car, giving the passengers a cursory examination without actually
searching the vehicles. Drake waited until the three cars in front of him
passed; then it was his turn. Both government men closed in on Drake’s Suburban
from either side. Hank began to growl, his tail slashing back and forth.
“Down boy,”
Drake put out a steadying hand, “Don’t bother the nice men.”
Drake swiveled
his head, looking out both sides of the Suburban; two sets of professional
stares gazed back. He felt cold X-ray eyes, probing not just his truck and his
dog but obviously scanning deep into his very being, searching for any
indication of corruption. This is weird.
His forehead tightened in thought. Why
the big government presence? Come to think of it, the ranger at the Tioga Pass
entrance hadn’t been the usual chipper, Boy Scout model either; more a law
enforcement type.
Drake
rolled both windows down admitting a blast of freezing wind. He winced, then
stuck his head out like any nosey tourist. “Say, what’s going on here today?”
He glanced from one man to the other. “Has there been a jail break or
something?”
“Simply
a routine precaution sir,” said the man on the driver’s side, a husky gent in
his thirties with sandy red hair. “Nothing to worry about.” He spoke in that
cold, not altogether reassuring tone, professionals tend to reserve for
civilians. The guy on the right looked awfully cool to be a G-man. He sported a
goatee and a snappy brimmed hat. Both wore navy blue windbreakers with large,
yellow block letters; the kind of cheap, quick-identity jacket favored by law
enforcement agencies. Drake tried to read the letters but the unzipped jacket
on the near side guy kept flapping in the icy breeze. The sight of that open
coat made Drake feel even colder. Finally he caught a glimpse on the other
jacket: BATF. Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco
and Firearms? Drake kept his face in impassive, pastoral-counseling mode. Curiouser and curiouser.
“Thank you for
your cooperation, sir.” The man gave a stiff-armed wave down the road. “You can
move along now. Please drive safely.” The guy didn’t seem the chatty,
informative type so Drake stifled his curiosity, put the truck in gear and
continued on his way.
The
main park road turned out to be comfortably wider than Tioga. Still, the
ever-present recreational vehicles and luxury compacts continued to endanger
the highway with their incessant game of tortoise and hare. The light drizzle
ceased, but the dark, rain-laden clouds continued to settle as if they were
actually homing in on his vehicle. Before long a heavy blanket of fog enveloped
the road. With visibility pert-near zero, Drake switched on the fog lamps.
A crisp, early
autumn afternoon had disappeared under the oppressive gloom of a mid-winter
twilight. The temperature must have
already dropped into the low 40’s, he thought. The sudden temperature
change forced him to switch on the heater, setting it high. By the time he
reached the legendary Valley of the Yosemite, all he could see were ponderous
banks of drifting fog, haloed red taillights, and an occasional natural object
by the side of the road.
Drake
found his spirits responding in kind to the dark ambience of the surrounding
landscape. He had embarked on this trip in an effort to break the iron grip of
his mourning, or depression, or whatever it was. And now, even the very
environment mimicked the heaviness of his heart, like there was no hope of
escaping the suffocating emptiness. He sighed, wondering if he would ever cast
off these emotional chains.
Drake’s
wandering attention gradually came back to the immediate present, much like the
fat beads of water vapor slowly condensing on the windshield. At first the
vapor merely looked like condensation on a glass. Soon however, the droplets
began to collect and cascade down the glass, obscuring the view. He flipped on
the wipers, twisting the column-mounted knob to long delay. That took care of
the thickening moisture. If only his state of mind could be squeegeed so
easily.
He peered at
the shroud of mist and congratulated himself for making such an intelligent
decision back there at the mini-mart. “Good call, Mister Drake,” he pronounced
as the Suburban splashed through a puddle, “Welcome to the Mystic Valley of
Enchantment.”
By straining
his eyes until they ached, Drake managed to
discern the brown and white National Park Service signs through the
deepening murk. Black on yellow directional arrows guided him around the valley
floor. Following these roadside helps he arrived at the correct lodgings. But
he was not yet home free. First he had to drive around, searching the crowded
parking lot for a large enough gap. At last, finding a precious, unoccupied
space, he blessed God and eased the big Chevy into the empty slot. Drake
climbed down from the Suburban, aware of a lot more stiffness than he had felt
at the mini mart a mere forty minutes earlier. There’s something about arriving at your destination, he reflected,
which your body interprets as a signal to
stop being patient with you.
“Come
on, Hank.” He crooked his arms, rolling stiff shoulders. “Out you come, pup.”
Hank jumped to the ground, bowing his big black head between outstretched paws.
The dog raised his rump in the air, bending like a musical saw and giving
himself a good stretch too. Drake walked about for a moment, easing his cramped
legs and taking in as much of the misty surroundings as he could.
Curling
his arms up, elbows high, he did several slow side-twists to alleviate the
agony in his back, grinning for the benefit of a middle-aged couple who stared
back as he went through his antics. They were decked-out in matching bush
jackets, rugby shirts, hiking shorts and boots. The man had an expensive
looking 35-millimeter camera suspended from his neck. They had frozen in the
process of getting into a silver Volvo in the adjacent parking space. Feeling a
bit self-conscious he dropped his arms, curtailing his mountain-high aerobics
program. He took Hank’s leash in hand, heading toward the Lodge to register.
“Just
a minute,” said the woman from the Volvo, “Did you drive all the way here by
yourself, in that oversized SUV?”
“No,”
said Drake, just a bit puzzled, “my dog rode up with me, too.”
She
shook her head in exasperation over this nonsensical answer, “Don’t you realize
that driving a sport utility vehicle with only a single occupant is a criminal
waste of our precious fuel resources? And that’s not the sole factor to
consider. Have you taken into account the fact that your selfish
self-indulgence is making the roads unsafe for other drivers? Those overgrown
pollution machines are built like tanks. When they hit a normal car they nearly
always cause death. You have an unfair advantage in any kind of collision.” Her
silent husband stood beside her, gravely nodding his head in agreement.
“Excuse
me,” Drake responded. “May I ask what business my choice of transportation is
of yours?”
“I’m
a concerned citizen of Mother Earth. That makes it my business!” she said.
“Instead of driving around in that, that thing, thoughtlessly destroying the
environment and robbing the children of their future, you ought to be thinking about
saving the planet.”
Drake
held his peace, a bit taken aback by this onslaught. It seemed just a bit
hypocritical for someone riding around in one internal combustion vehicle to
get all hot and bothered about the use of another—not to mention its pure and
innocent driver. Their presumption puzzled him. According to Drake’s
upbringing, it’s not neighborly to go around sticking your nose into other
people’s business. It’s just not done. As a pastor, committed to his Christian
faith, he would not feel right about sticking it to others like this.
Witnessing with an opening might be one thing, pushing and shoving was
unacceptable.
“Thank you for
your concern,” he said, trying to be polite, resisting the impulse to thumb his
nose. Turning away he said, “Hank, heel.”
Walking toward
the lodge, he reflected on that evil instrument of doom, the sport utility
vehicle. An awful lot of people seemed to be getting just a tad unreasonable
about them these days. When you got right down to it, an SUV was nothing more than
a sturdy cross between the old family station wagon and a practical, utility
truck.
Even Drake’s
own state had passed laws to restrict the demon SUV. Then there was the latest
idiocy being espoused; a call to mandate that sport utility vehicles be constructed
in a manner that would render them less
crashworthy, thereby giving a diminished advantage in any collision. As he
waited for a Ford Explorer to pass, Drake shook his head in wonder and silent
derision over mankind’s inherent tendency to loonyness.
Inside
Muir Lodge, Drake found it looked just like a real hotel. The reservations desk
stood to one side of a wide hallway filled by a whole lot of folks aimlessly
milling about. A quick look around revealed a sprawling structure, housing all
the tourist amenities, including several grades of restaurant, and of course,
the obligatory tourist gift-shop.
Drake hoped this
building was not a taste of what he could expect of the rest of Yosemite’s
architecture. It looked like one of those sixties-kitsch office buildings—the
kind sporting floor to ceiling plate glass windows and wandering trails of
indoor-outdoor carpet. Even the synthetic ‘native’ stone and pebbled-concrete
sidewalk did little to create a rustic atmosphere.
“Humph,” he jammed his
hands deep into his pants pockets, Hardly
the setting for a rustic mountain adventure. But the initial dismay faded
when he realized that the building merely reflected the soaring, “space age”
architecture of the 1950’s. He remembered that he had found pretty much the
same style at Mt. Rushmore.
After
looking the place over, Drake maneuvered back through a sea of hustling bodies.
He got in line, waited his turn and finally gave his name to the clerk behind
the counter, explaining that he had a reservation. The clerk gazed back with
raised eyebrows and began working on a desk-mounted office computer, opening
applications and scrolling through several tiled screens, amassing the
requisite information.
Based on his
pre-trip research, Drake had discovered that one does not simply stroll into a
Yosemite Valley hostelry and request a room. Even the camping sites, both drive
in and hike in, require advance reservations. Drake had made his, both for a
cabin in the valley and a week in the high country, months in advance. Of course, he reminded himself, back then the reservation had been made for
two. He sighed and shoved that thought aside, trying to focus on the
moment.
The
clerk stopped his Mister Technology Guy performance. Holding out an imperious
hand, the thermal printer churned a hard copy right into his waiting digits.
“Here we are,” he intoned happily. “One efficiency-cabin for the fifteenth
through the twenty-first.” The clerk produced the usual magnetic strip plastic key
card.
“Thanks,” Drake
accepted the receipt. “Where can I find my cabin?”
“Just follow
the sidewalk out front to the right, and then over two rows,” he said. “Go
right on past the Lodge, and pass through a small stand of trees. On the other
side of those trees you will find the detached the cabins.”
Drake stuffed
his paperwork and key card into a coat pocket and followed the walkway, passing
through the little grove of pines. He found himself in the midst of a wooded
acre of individual cabins. The cabins were much more in line with his
idealistic vision of bucolic, backwoods habitation. They were sided with
rough-sawn, overlapping pine boards, covered with faded green stain. The roofs
were surfaced with ancient, moss-bedecked cedar shakes. Even the windows were
old-fashioned; wood-frame, swing-open types. He mounted the steps, opened the
door and surveyed number thirty-eight; not an ounce of politically correct,
cutting edge, energy efficient, government approved, high technology to be
seen. He loved it.
Since
the rolling, heavy mist still defied all his attempts to experience any kind of
view spectacular or otherwise, he slipped the card through the lock and went
inside. Now this, he smiled, is a cabin. Hoss, Lil’ Joe, fetch in some
firewood, boys! Drake found himself in possession of a room about the size
of a single car garage. It contained a massive wooden bedstead, an antique
swivel-mirrored dresser, a small, scarred dining table and chairs, sink, stove,
mini fridge, and an ancient gas floor heater. Beyond a door in the kitchen he
found a small, serviceable bathroom. The place was perfect.
Drake went back
to the parking lot and moved the Suburban. He parked it as near the cabin as
possible. With Hank romping at his side, he began the demanding process of
hauling in mountains of gear. He had lots to carry, but Hank helped out by
straying constantly underfoot, threatening a heavy tumble for both of them.
“Hank!” snapped
Drake with some annoyance, “Settle down boy, heel!” Hank obeyed, but gave Drake
the benefit of his wounded innocence look. The pup took position at Drake’s
side, his head keeping station with Drake’s left knee.
After feeding
Hank, the first item of importance was setting up his work station. He lugged
the leather bag over to the table, opened it and took out his new computer. Like anything is ever new in computers,
he scoffed. Hardware and software both
are out of date, practically before you get them home. Drake powered up the
computer which soon mated up to the lodge’s wifi network. While the system checked
his e-mail account he went back out to the truck for another load.
He left the
camping equipment in the cargo area behind the back seat. There wouldn’t be any
use for it until he headed up to the high country, anyway. Finally he had
everything stored away. He checked the computer finding no new E-mail. Pulling
a cold drink from the fridge he flopped into the ancient easy chair with and a
sigh. Mountain Man, Drake has arrived,
ready for action….Yes sir.
Quiet…
With all the chores done he had only Hank for company. Dogs didn’t give much
lip but they contributed very little to the intellectual climate. Drake found
his heavy mood returning. It never left him for long in any case. Here he sat
like a useless lump in one of the world’s premiere vacation spots and Stan
Drake didn’t want to do anything. What,
load up the camera and take some simply enchanting pictures of fog? Go to a
restaurant for a cozy meal by myself? Take a nature hike and watch the mist
turn into a deluge? Nuts.
He
got up, stripped off his sweaty travel clothes and trudged into the shower,
luxuriating in steaming hot water. He found himself staring bleakly at the
chipped blue tiles in front of his face, remembering how he and Linda had
planned this trip over a year ago. Sighing over his past, and equally sorry
present, he ran the soap roughly over his body. On stepping out, he found that
the little bathroom had become a mist-shrouded sauna. By contrast the rest of the
cabin felt dank as a meat locker. Shivering, trailing streams of water across the
floor, he plodded to the heater, switched it on, and began groping for some
warm clothes.
After
dressing, with the room nearing a more comfortable temperature, he felt a bit
more like his old self. But he still didn’t feel like doing much of anything. Idly,
he went to the computer, opening his vacation plans. The folder contained files
of maps, schedules, points of interest and gear checklists: the works. Drake’s
master plan for his personal conquest of Yosemite began with five days on
Yosemite Valley floor. Using the cabin for a base he figured he could take his
time prowling around every piece of glaciated real estate the place had to
offer.
Afterwards,
he planned to check out of the cabin and head into the high country for another
week devoted to backpacking, camping and being alone. A campsite at Merced
Lake, up beyond Half Dome to the east, had his name on it. Drake wanted to
spend a full week in Yosemite Valley in order to allow himself a gradual
adjustment to the altitude. Nine thousand feet up in the alpine wilderness his
lungs were going to need all the acclimating they could get. But he had no need
to rehash all his plans again. He already knew this stuff by heart; he also
realized he was still moping around.
Okay then, he asked himself, feel better? Yeah, I guess so. Well then
junior, let’s get out there and follow the footsteps of ‘ol John Muir.
Drake switched off the computer, grabbed his coat and hat, and whistled for
Hank. The dog jumped up from his pallet, bringing his leash to Drake. A quick
check of the weather convinced him he might as well forget about the camera for
the damp, dark present. He led Hank outside, shutting the door on a
disagreeable afternoon.
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